Point 2 – Viewpoint above the mills in the Rječina Canyon

Above the wild canyon of the Rječina, between the hills of Katarina and Trsat, lies a viewpoint that reveals one of the most powerful panoramas of Rijeka’s hinterland.

This area is not only a natural canyon, but also a historically crucial access corridor to the city of Rijeka. In the wider surroundings above the canyon lies the area known as Banjska vrata, a historic entry point into the urban space of Rijeka. Through this passage, movement from the inland toward the city was controlled for centuries, marking a clear transition between the outer territory and the regulated city zone.

On one side rise Utvrda Katarina A and Utvrda Katarina B, part of a defensive system that monitored the canyon and all inland approaches to the city. Their position, together with the Banjska vrata corridor, formed a wider strategic control network protecting Rijeka.

Opposite them, on Trsat Hill, stands Trsatska gradina – one of the most famous and most visited historical landmarks in Rijeka. Due to its strategic elevation, it served for centuries as a key observation point over the Rječina, the canyon, and all access routes to the city. Today it is a major tourist attraction, but only from this viewpoint above the former mills and Banjska vrata does its full military significance become clear.

Deep below in the canyon, a network of watermills once operated, powered by the river’s force – among the best known was Mlin Žakalj. Today, none of them are active, and the flow of the Rječina often appears much weaker than in the past.

This is the result of modern water management. During the 20th century, reservoirs and water supply systems were built, and much of the river’s flow is now regulated and redirected. As a result, the natural strong current that once powered the mills has significantly decreased. However, after heavy rainfall or water releases, the river once again reveals its full strength.

In the past, the river was crossed via shallow fords, and during high water levels crossing was impossible. Today, a new walking path and bridge allow safe passage and offer a completely new way to experience this landscape.

 This is the place where three key elements come together: Banjska vrata as the historical city entrance, the fortifications on Katarina, and Trsatska gradina, along with the Rječina itself – clearly showing how the terrain shaped Rijeka’s defense and development.